The Beginning....

The Beginning....
When William Least Heat-Moon toured the country many years ago, his steed, if you will, was a van that he named Ghost Dancing. His journey of America was 13,000 miles. His book is Blue Highways, A Journey Into America. My steed will be a Subaru WRX (traded for an XV Crosstrek). My travels will be, what in the past were called, the blue highways of Virginia. Years ago, maps showed secondary roads in blue. Yes, the ones less traveled.

Thursday, June 26, 2014

My Trip to Exmore and Cape Charles: The Good, Bad, and the Ugly....Well, Sort Of.........

What a day! Decided about 8am that I wanted to go somewhere. Thought about going to the Virginia Diner in Waverly...then, well... maybe I'd go to Franklin.

Needed gas. And, yes, where I get gas is a block from the Bridge Tunnel. So, that cinched it. I'd been wanting to go to the Exmore Diner. That’s where I headed. My neighbor, who spends a lot of time on the Eastern Shore hunting, regularly eats at the local restaurants staying away from the chains. He told me not to go to the Exmore Diner. He said the food was lousy.








The movie house reminded me of The Last Picture Show.......
The Positive Difference police department.......



















































































































































































A few months back, the lady who writes the restaurant reviews for our paper had an article about the 30 restaurants in Virginia that we all needed to try. Yes, she listed the Exmore and mentioned the five-dollar crab cake sandwich. After her article, I went to their website…and, yes, there’s the crab cake sandwich for $4.95.

So, that sort of sets the stage. I got to Exmore a little early for lunch and walked around the town, taking snaps. I needed a little exercise. Sadly, there seemed to be a lot of vacant storefronts.

I had decided I’d most likely get flounder and maybe a crab cake. Hey, crab cakes for five bucks. Well, as soon as I looked at the menu my afternoon sort of turned to crap and thoughts of a great meal with terrific service were soon dashed.

The young lady in the photo is Destiny. She’s a week or so shy of 19. Dang, wouldn't it be great to be 19? On second thought, I don’t want to be 19. Hey, how about 60 or so…that sounds pretty good.

Anyway, back to Destiny. She brought me some sweet tea that was OK. She’d only been working at the diner for three weeks and had recently moved from Baltimore to live with her dad.

Oh, yeah, the menu. The crab cake sandwich was $8.95.

My waitress came to take my order. Seems Destiny is in training and doesn't yet wait on customers. When asked about the prices she said they’d gone up several years ago but wasn't specific about how many years ago. Why haven’t you changed the prices on your website (this is an abbreviated version of our conversation)? Well, prices are subject to change. I understand that, but you are knowingly advertising prices that you know to be not true.

Back to the food. No flounder but they did have trout.


I like my food well done. I eat out a lot so I ain’t exactly a neophyte to restaurant dining. Things don’t have to be perfect…. All I want is the food not to be spoiled, cooked well done, and reasonably hot when it’s served.

The trout I could have fried or broiled. I emphasized well done…..really well done. Yes, I asked for broiled.

Well, you see the fish. Yes, my photography isn't all that good but you can surely see that the fish is white with absolutely no browning. When I asked her about the way it was cooked she said it was well done. Why no browning? It’s cooked in a microwave! Actually broiled in a microwave. A fucking microwave! Yes, I think this called for what we say is the F word. Actually, the fish reminded me of the last time I went to Red Lobster. My flounder looked about the same as Exmore's trout. Absolutely white with no browning. Amazing.

OK, I’m sure someone will take me to task on this, but cooking fish in a microwave and saying it's broiled? I know little about cooking but that just ain’t right. Go to a restaurant and be served microwaved fish?

The waitress knew I wasn't pleased though didn't offer to serve me something else or to fry it or to do anything. In fact, she just didn't care whether I liked the meal or not. It seemed to me, that in her mind she ethically held the high ground because of my questioning their prices and their marketing.

She had also come back again about the prices. Said she’d work there a long time and in my words, was sticking up for them (the restaurant owners). To add to it, I had mentioned that I’d driven up from Virginia Beach.

She said something like, Well, down there in Virginia Beach I’m sure they do things differently. My response was, People are people and food is food.

How did it all shake out? Well, I ate a few French fries (they were OK but surely not special) and a few bites of coleslaw which was good. The fish I picked at…but after one bite I just couldn't eat it; in fact, microwave or not, it was barely warmish, definitely not hot. Soooo, there you have it folks. And, yes, I tipped her $4.00 on a bill of $12.XX……

I would imagine that if I'd picked a fried meal that things would have turned out differently. But, I didn't. I just thought that being on the Eastern Shore, I could surely get a decent broiled fish dinner.


I should have paid attention to my neighbor. Kevin was right, the food was lousy. OK, the fish was lousy.

What are the factors that determine how we view a meal in a restaurant? Or, a dining experience, if you will. Well, for me it would be the food and the service. The so-called ambiance doesn't mean much to me. So, let’s say you get served something that isn't to your liking and the person waiting on you, grabs the plate, takes it in the back, and makes it right. Or, let’s say the food is mediocre but the service is tops. You know, hey, what the heck; I’d most likely go back again. Anyone can be having an extra-busy day and everyone screws-up from time-to-time.

However, when the server has a crappy attitude, tries to justify false advertising, the food (based on my trout) is shit (in fairness, the side orders were fine), and the prices are 80% above what’s advertised, well…..they are leading from an extremely weak hand.

EDIT: Note, if my mom were still alive I wouldn't have used the F and S word. Sorry, Mom.

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The following photos were taken in Cape Charles.























Yes, I know, I can see my reflection. I bet this is an interesting hotel.
An interesting hardware store...
Cape Charles was jumpin’. Wow, there were lots of folks walking around on the main street. The last time I was in Cape Charles that wasn't the case. I guess I should have asked someone what was going on. I know they are having some musical activities or something this coming weekend. Also, there were two massive yachts in the harbor. I mean huge.

Quite a contrast to Exmore. I didn't notice any empty storefronts in the couple of blocks I walked. I had thoughts of going to the harbor, but it was just too dag- gone hot.






Well, after getting hosed, to use that term, at the old Exmore Diner, Mr. Ron, the water station man was just what I needed. What a delightful fellow. When I was in Cape Charles a few months ago, I failed to get a photo of the water tower. Said the next time on the Eastern Shore, I was going to correct that and I did. I was shooting away when Ron drove-up. We talked for a few minutes and he invited me in to show me a photo of the lighthouse that’s the inspiration for the paint job on the water tower.

Ron’s been taking care of Cape Charles’ water for ten years. He said he and another fellow run the water plant. He explained how it all worked but my eyes glazed over. There are a couple of huge control panels with lots of lights and switches….gauges everywhere, valves, and all kind of gizmos. The only thing I understood, if I remember correctly, is water is pumped into the tower and then processed on its way to the citizens. Oh, well.

He said there’s a steady stream of people stopping by to take pictures. Also, said some folks think it is an actual lighthouse.

Again, Ron thanks for being so accommodating. Enjoyed the tour. My best to you.


Well, what did I learn, if anything, today? My so-called photography is driving me crazy. There’s a rocker switch that I keep hitting accidentally that screws-up the photos…. I've got to stop doing that. Had several OK snaps that I just couldn't use because they were so under-exposed. The switch (over/under compensation) is just where your right thumb naturally falls on the back of the camera. I just put a couple of vinyl labels on the back of the camera to remind me.

Hmmm…. Got a little sun and exercise today (yes, the wind was blowing when I took this). Is it time for a haircut?

Nah….


Except for the crappy meal, today was a pleasant day. Need to get out more often.

About 105 miles, five hours.......



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Maybe lighthouses should be in black and white........


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